I was asked to post some scale shots of the 3D printed Type 92 Tankettes and some of my other 28mm stuff. First up, a few pictures next to three 28mm infantry figs (from left to right 2 Battle Honors figs and a plastic Warlod figure)
Another view.
Here's a close up with the plastic figure on the right.
Lastly, a comparison shot with a 1/56th scale Chi-Ha tank from Company B. I think Nate hit the scale right on as these little vehicles look to be in scale
This blog will will contain my rather pedantic ramblings on my experiences within the miniature war gaming hobby. There will be informative how-to’s, thrilling battle reports and thought provoking editorials. I fully expect that history will one day view the contents of this blog on par with Homer’s Illiad or Newton’s Principalia. Or it's a complete waste of time.
Saturday, November 30, 2013
Prep Work for the Challenge has Begins!
Just like the 60 other participants in this years Analogue Hobbies Painting Challenge, I have been focusing my hobby time on prep-work ahead of the Dec 15th start date.
First up for priming is a rather ecletic tray of 28mm stuff. Starting in the upper left and moving clockwise are
- 13 French & Indian War Figs I'm doing for my Bloggers for Charity Contribution
- 30 Perry Dismounted Cavalry (18 Confederate and 12 Union)
- 3 Blitzkrieg Models tanks (Panzer III J, Matilda 2 and a Grant
- A Core Sec Engineering Higgins Boat
- Yet another Perry Confederate Infantry Regiment (24 figs)
My goal is 1,500 points this year. The tray above will tally in at around 425 points (assuming his most honorable and munificent lordship Curt allows me a few extra points for the Higgins boat given its size).
One of the things I like most about the challenge is that it provides a reason to go in and mine some of the lead and plastic I've accumulated over the years in this hobby. I'll pause here for a moment as I know it's a shocking revelation that a gamer has a stash of unpainted miniatures….
OK everyone settled down now, good, lets proceed…
The competition is a great opportunity to delve into the lead mountain to paint up stuff that's accumulated. For me it will be 15mm Flames of War stuff as I'm starting to get back into the game thanks to a very fun outing with WWPD Luke at the Flames of War doubles tournament at Fall-In.
Enough talk, back to priming
First up for priming is a rather ecletic tray of 28mm stuff. Starting in the upper left and moving clockwise are
- 13 French & Indian War Figs I'm doing for my Bloggers for Charity Contribution
- 30 Perry Dismounted Cavalry (18 Confederate and 12 Union)
- 3 Blitzkrieg Models tanks (Panzer III J, Matilda 2 and a Grant
- A Core Sec Engineering Higgins Boat
- Yet another Perry Confederate Infantry Regiment (24 figs)
My goal is 1,500 points this year. The tray above will tally in at around 425 points (assuming his most honorable and munificent lordship Curt allows me a few extra points for the Higgins boat given its size).
One of the things I like most about the challenge is that it provides a reason to go in and mine some of the lead and plastic I've accumulated over the years in this hobby. I'll pause here for a moment as I know it's a shocking revelation that a gamer has a stash of unpainted miniatures….
OK everyone settled down now, good, lets proceed…
The competition is a great opportunity to delve into the lead mountain to paint up stuff that's accumulated. For me it will be 15mm Flames of War stuff as I'm starting to get back into the game thanks to a very fun outing with WWPD Luke at the Flames of War doubles tournament at Fall-In.
Enough talk, back to priming
Friday, November 29, 2013
3D Printed Japanese Type 92 Tankettes Completed
I manage to finish painting up the two Type 92 Tankettes I received from Nate. These models are 28mm scale and were designed by Nate via on the computer and then 3D printed. I must say that they were a joy to paint and I'm a big believer that this technology will have a big impact on our hobby.
A close up of one tank - you can see the layering effect caused by the printing process on flat surfaces, such as the turret side. It's invisible anywhere there is detail - the engine grill vent in the back. I think the effect looks great. I'm not sure what material Nate used (there are lots of options) but it holds up well. The only issue is the long heavy machine gun barrel droops a bit but that can be easily fixed with a bit of thin brass rod.
The second tank looks that same but I needed to replace the medium machine gun in the turret with some brass rod. Remember these are just Tankettes (a little more than two inches long) so there very small. The tanks are perfectly scaled in 28mm but have roughly the same physical size as a 15mm Sherman tank.
The brittleness of the material is about the same as a resin model.
Overall, I'm am very happy with how they came out. You can follow more 3D printing adventures over on the WWPD forum here.
A close up of one tank - you can see the layering effect caused by the printing process on flat surfaces, such as the turret side. It's invisible anywhere there is detail - the engine grill vent in the back. I think the effect looks great. I'm not sure what material Nate used (there are lots of options) but it holds up well. The only issue is the long heavy machine gun barrel droops a bit but that can be easily fixed with a bit of thin brass rod.
The second tank looks that same but I needed to replace the medium machine gun in the turret with some brass rod. Remember these are just Tankettes (a little more than two inches long) so there very small. The tanks are perfectly scaled in 28mm but have roughly the same physical size as a 15mm Sherman tank.
The brittleness of the material is about the same as a resin model.
Overall, I'm am very happy with how they came out. You can follow more 3D printing adventures over on the WWPD forum here.
Thursday, November 28, 2013
Happy Thanksgiving from the Uber Geek
Just a short note from the Lair wishing all of you and your families a happy Thanksgiving Day.
Here in the Lair, it's the quiet period before the storm of preparation begins. I think I find the frantic preparation of the feast as much fun (maybe even a bit more fun) than the actual eating itself.
My wife prepares a legendary meal and what may be even more myth-building is the kitchen mess she can create. At times, I think she secretly takes handfuls of flour and just throws it in the air. Of course, there will be the inevitable Thanksgiving Day challenges to be faced - the panic of a missing ingredient, a dropped pan (ahhh, the year of the para-turkey!), a spilled glass of wine - all things that will be overcome and transform from crisis to cherished memory.
But the main theme of the day is to be Thankful for what we have and I find my self with an overflowing cup there. We're all healthy and, with my son is home from college, we're all together so what can be better than that?
Have a great day, enjoy the football and be thankful for what you have.
Here in the Lair, it's the quiet period before the storm of preparation begins. I think I find the frantic preparation of the feast as much fun (maybe even a bit more fun) than the actual eating itself.
My wife prepares a legendary meal and what may be even more myth-building is the kitchen mess she can create. At times, I think she secretly takes handfuls of flour and just throws it in the air. Of course, there will be the inevitable Thanksgiving Day challenges to be faced - the panic of a missing ingredient, a dropped pan (ahhh, the year of the para-turkey!), a spilled glass of wine - all things that will be overcome and transform from crisis to cherished memory.
But the main theme of the day is to be Thankful for what we have and I find my self with an overflowing cup there. We're all healthy and, with my son is home from college, we're all together so what can be better than that?
Have a great day, enjoy the football and be thankful for what you have.
Wednesday, November 27, 2013
4Ground Ruined House #2: Let's Play Dress Up
Here are the limited materials I used
- a slurry of playground sand, model railroad ballast and matte medium for rubble
- Some basswood for timbers - painted with Vallejo Biege Brown (874) which matches the floor boards closely
- The precut brick rubble provided with the kit
A handful of timbers were added for more visual interest but I tried to keep them out of the way so figures can still fit in the model.
One last shot. This project was both simple and fast. I think I spent 30 minutes putting everything on and cleaning up but the result is acceptable.
Note: my post can also be found on the WWPD Bolt Action site
Sunday, November 24, 2013
Planning for the Challenge Part Quatre
Curt must have special powers - no sooner does he announce that the theme of this year's challenge is Sam Peckinpah's "The Wild Bunch" than it pops onto to AMC yesterday. So three hours of desperately needed prep time was consumed by watching the flick. What a feel-good, happy ending to that one! It's a great movie and a very worthy theme for the challenge.
Now it's time to start planning for the event, what I'll paint, when and (new to this year) which of the "Fortnight Theme Bonus Rounds" to participate in. There are 6 and each concurs a 50 bonus points for participating so they'll be a big source of getting me over the 1,500 point I set.
Scoring is based on painted figures. Most of my stuff will be 28mm which scores at 5 points per infantry, 10 for cavalry/artillery, and 15 for vehicles. I'll also do a good bit in 15mm which tallys in at 2 for infantry, 4 for cavalry/artillery and 6 for vehicles.
Sadly, I have enough figures in the old lead/plastic file to make my quota this year but I'm still figuring out what to do.
I will likely combine the challenge with pulling off a convention game at Cold Wars - just to increase the pressure a bit - there's nothing that motivates painting more than the threat of public humiliation via a poorly received convention game! I think a big ACW Battle using the Longstreet rule set is in the "cards". I'll need to complete another 5-10 or so confederate and union regiments to be ready.
So whats on the prep table?
ACW:
120, 28mm Confederate Infantry (Perry plastics) - need to be assembled and primed
18, 28mm Dismounted Confederate Cavalry (Perry Metals)
12, 28mm Dismounted Union Cavalry (Perry Metals)
4, Batteries of ACW Artillery (Perry Metals, 1 gun / 4 crew each)
Flames of War:
15, 15mm T34s (PSC plastic kits) - I need to decide if these will be WW2 Soviets or Arab/Israeli War Egyptians
4, 15mm Marder III's (Battlefront)
An uncountable horde of Soviet Infantry (PSC plastics)
8, 15mm German Halftracks (250's / Battlefront)
5, 15mm Stuarts (PSC plastic kit)
Bolt Action (28mm WW2):
38, 28mm German Afrikakorps (Perry plastics)
1, 28mm German Panzer III/J (Blitzkrieg Models)
1, 28mm Marder II (Blitzkrieg Models)
1, 28mm Honey Tank (Blitzkrieg Models)
1, 28mm Grant Tank (Blitzkrieg Models)
All Quiet on the Martian Front:
- While technically not in the lead pile these will arrive in January and it's a whole bunch of stuff coming.
Let's see what I can get prepared by 12/15/13 at 12:01am CST!
Now it's time to start planning for the event, what I'll paint, when and (new to this year) which of the "Fortnight Theme Bonus Rounds" to participate in. There are 6 and each concurs a 50 bonus points for participating so they'll be a big source of getting me over the 1,500 point I set.
Scoring is based on painted figures. Most of my stuff will be 28mm which scores at 5 points per infantry, 10 for cavalry/artillery, and 15 for vehicles. I'll also do a good bit in 15mm which tallys in at 2 for infantry, 4 for cavalry/artillery and 6 for vehicles.
Sadly, I have enough figures in the old lead/plastic file to make my quota this year but I'm still figuring out what to do.
I will likely combine the challenge with pulling off a convention game at Cold Wars - just to increase the pressure a bit - there's nothing that motivates painting more than the threat of public humiliation via a poorly received convention game! I think a big ACW Battle using the Longstreet rule set is in the "cards". I'll need to complete another 5-10 or so confederate and union regiments to be ready.
So whats on the prep table?
ACW:
120, 28mm Confederate Infantry (Perry plastics) - need to be assembled and primed
18, 28mm Dismounted Confederate Cavalry (Perry Metals)
12, 28mm Dismounted Union Cavalry (Perry Metals)
4, Batteries of ACW Artillery (Perry Metals, 1 gun / 4 crew each)
Flames of War:
15, 15mm T34s (PSC plastic kits) - I need to decide if these will be WW2 Soviets or Arab/Israeli War Egyptians
4, 15mm Marder III's (Battlefront)
An uncountable horde of Soviet Infantry (PSC plastics)
8, 15mm German Halftracks (250's / Battlefront)
5, 15mm Stuarts (PSC plastic kit)
Bolt Action (28mm WW2):
38, 28mm German Afrikakorps (Perry plastics)
1, 28mm German Panzer III/J (Blitzkrieg Models)
1, 28mm Marder II (Blitzkrieg Models)
1, 28mm Honey Tank (Blitzkrieg Models)
1, 28mm Grant Tank (Blitzkrieg Models)
All Quiet on the Martian Front:
- While technically not in the lead pile these will arrive in January and it's a whole bunch of stuff coming.
Let's see what I can get prepared by 12/15/13 at 12:01am CST!
Saturday, November 23, 2013
3D Printed Type 92 Japanese Tankette
There's a interesting thread over on the WWPD forum by Nate (aka Rabid Monkey) that discusses the design and creation of 28mm vehicles using CAD software and a 3D printer. Nate is an extremely well skilled operator and one of his creations is a 28mm Type 92 Japanese Tankette. It's so nice I bought two! Each model comes with 11 pieces which are pictured to the left (oops, the turret is missing - well wait for the next picture).
The model goes together extremely well - the part fitting was perfect and the detail is amazing. As per Nate's suggestion, I used super glue which does bond very fast given the porous nature of the printed material (its a type of ABS, I think). Test fitting all the parts is a must. As these are pro type models they're a bit delicate - the sharp eyed amongst you will notice that I replaced the Medium Machine gun on the right turret with some brass rod. I broke the gun off and lost in the carpeting under my workbench. I think there's enough missing parts under the workbench for a whole army, but that's material for a future post.
Next is a shot of the Type 92's primed. As with most of my miniatures, I prime with grey auto primer as it helps me see the details and its' both very reliable and cheap.
A picture from the reverse side. The detail that can be added via the 3D printing process is amazing. For example the inside portions of the tracks and wheels are detailed and the rivets are both at scale and easily visible.
3D printing technology is still in it's very early stages and currently requires both a very talented designer and a fairly expensive piece of equipment. I think it has great promise for just in time manufacturing and our hobby in particular over the next 5-10 years. Similar to the way we can buy rules on PDF's or configured for tablets, I think we'll see the day when figures are purchased via the download of limited use cad designs which we then print out a preset number of copies.
Very exciting stuff.
The model goes together extremely well - the part fitting was perfect and the detail is amazing. As per Nate's suggestion, I used super glue which does bond very fast given the porous nature of the printed material (its a type of ABS, I think). Test fitting all the parts is a must. As these are pro type models they're a bit delicate - the sharp eyed amongst you will notice that I replaced the Medium Machine gun on the right turret with some brass rod. I broke the gun off and lost in the carpeting under my workbench. I think there's enough missing parts under the workbench for a whole army, but that's material for a future post.
Next is a shot of the Type 92's primed. As with most of my miniatures, I prime with grey auto primer as it helps me see the details and its' both very reliable and cheap.
A picture from the reverse side. The detail that can be added via the 3D printing process is amazing. For example the inside portions of the tracks and wheels are detailed and the rivets are both at scale and easily visible.
3D printing technology is still in it's very early stages and currently requires both a very talented designer and a fairly expensive piece of equipment. I think it has great promise for just in time manufacturing and our hobby in particular over the next 5-10 years. Similar to the way we can buy rules on PDF's or configured for tablets, I think we'll see the day when figures are purchased via the download of limited use cad designs which we then print out a preset number of copies.
Very exciting stuff.
Friday, November 22, 2013
Fall In 2013 Bolt Action Tournament: Learnings
I thought I would post my key learnings I took away
from the Fall-In Bolt Action tournament. The most obvious learning is the
realization that Stefan (Sheck2) puts on a grand event and we are all very
fortunate that he does given the huge amount of effort he puts forth - thanks
again for a great event.
I played Japanese and overall still really like them as a
tournament force. I went 2-1 and came in 6th so was very pleased with my
showing. I got lucky and won the "First Tank Kill" award for the second
round but it was against one of my own tanks as I loaned an army out to another
player so that's a bit tainted.
Here are my take aways:
(1) I was surprised at the low number of axis players (4 out of
19). That meant a lot of blue on blue games which is OK. Of course as the sole
Japanese representative, I only played allies. I suspect this will change by
Cold Wars as the Finns appear to be the new Hotness right now.
(2) From a Japanese list perspective the 2 new
"unique" units for the army - the suicide AT guys (SATG's) and the
bamboo spear squad are very effective units when used for their role.
- The SAT'G's draw a lot of fire so I highly recommend taking
vets (at 26 points each). I took out 3 tanks with these guys and when not
directly attacking the vehicles their
presence made my opponent very nervous and cautious and consumed
order dice as his units targeted my SATGs.
- I had one Bamboo Spear 15 figure squad and it rocked - at 75
points for the unit you can play with some abandon. In my second game this unit
accounted for at least 300
points of enemy kills. Of course there were only 5 guys left a
the end of the game but that's part of the "charm"
(3) I took a Ho-Ro assault gun with a 150mm howitzer (155 points
@ regular, 7+ armor, open top). It's a fearsome weapon on paper but didn't
really do much in the tournament. In my first game with Mike (the guy with a
plan) his 4 shot Crusader AA tank made short work of it. During the second game
the tank survived but didn't score any hits and in the third game it managed to
kill a squad before being silenced in turn 3 by John B's M-10. Next time, I
think I'll get a regular gun and use the freed up points for a tankete.
(4) My basic infantry squad was 12 regular rifle men vs 10 with
a light machine gun from last time. The new configuration worked a lot better
(12 shots vs 11 and 12 dice in close combat vs 10). The extra close combat dice
are really key when playing the Japanese
(5) I need to spread stuff out more - in all three of my games I
got hit by either arty or air that managed to hit 3-5 units. I also forgot
about the option to go down to halve hits.
I will definitely play the Japanese again at Cold Wars, but will
tweak my list. I need to find some games in the DC area to "test"
Just to repeat, the tournament was a great experience and in
addition to thanking Mr Stefan, I'd like to thank all of you other competitors
who make playing this game so much fun.
Thursday, November 21, 2013
4Ground Ruined House 2: A Review
I continue to see lots of the new 4Ground laser cut buildings and Fall In was no exception. After playing on a few tables with the terrain pieces during the Bolt Action Tournament, I decided to take the plunge and pick up a few of them at the Vendor Hall. The first one up for review is the 28mm "Ruined House 2". The kit come flat packed which makes them very easy for retailers to stock. The kit had a price of $25.00 US.
Components:
So, what's inside the plastic bag? There were 8 sheets of laser cut wood. As you can see, sheets come in different shades which allow the kit to not require painting when completed. The planning that goes into the layout of all the parts is very, very impressive. There are a lot of small details that are either cut onto the parts themselves (bullet holes, knots in the wood planking) or are separate pieces. For example, the red sheet (center / front sheet) is used for the exposed brick work has extra brick sections to use as rubble including 80 individual bricks. All of the components where very well produced and the sheet coloring was well done. The only thing I can ding 4Ground on is the instruction sheet, which is a color fold out that shows how all the parts go together. I find 4Ground's presentation style to be a bit confusing but that's a minor nit. Build Tip 1: ALWAYS test fit parts before gluing, it's easy to get a bit confused as to which part goes where.
Components: 9 out of 10
Assembly:
It took me roughly 45 minutes of build time to complete the model and, as advertised, it's ready for the tabletop (more on that later). I used standard yellow wood glue for the model and all the parts fit together snuggly. The walls of the house are two parts Outside and inside facing so the both sides are "painted" but it also adds a good deal of strength to the kit. I did my standard drop test from 4 feet and nothing happened. OK, I don't really have a standard drop test (dropping one of my resin kits are you crazy?). I accidentally dropped the finished kit and it survived the fall intact! There is a surprising amount of interior detail, walls, posts and stairs. The plank flooring is well done. I was a little skeptical about building the stairs but they proved to be an easy assembly. The stairs are designed to accommodate a 25 mm round base so 28mm figures can be placed securely on the stairs. Build Tip 2: Don't remove parts from the sheet until you need them. There are part numbers printed on the sheet next to the parts (not on them) so it can become hard to identify parts once they are separated from their part number. This should just be a model kit, not a puzzle and model kit.
Assembly: 10 out of 10
Finished Kit:
The finished kit looks good and is ready for the table top. I was very impressed by the model but do have an aesthetic issue with the appearance - it's too "straight liney". What does that mean? As the model is assembled for sheets of plywood everything is angular, flat and "clean" - there's nothing "round". A demolished house would have piles of rubble which don't lend themselves to being represented for flat sheet of wood. I think this is an easy fix by adding some rubble mix and using the 80 precut individual bricks provided with the kit.
Another view of the model which shows the stairs.
Finally the other side of the kit. My next step for this model will be to "tart-it-up" with some rubble and debris. I'll use a slurry of fine sand, rail road model ballast and the kit's bricks to make rubble and use my band saw to trim some planks from the frame that held the floor parts for some timbers. The key is to add enough rubble/debris to soften the angular look without taking up too much room as models still need to fit into the house. That project will be the subject of another post.
Finished Kit: 8/10
Summary:
Kit Components: 9 out of 10
Kit Assembly: 10 out of 10
Finished Kit: 8/10
Overall: 9/10 - Highly Recommended
I'm confident that I'll be raising the score of the completed kit once I'm done adding a small amount of debris.
NOTE: This post first appeared on the WWPD Bolt Action Blog
Components:
So, what's inside the plastic bag? There were 8 sheets of laser cut wood. As you can see, sheets come in different shades which allow the kit to not require painting when completed. The planning that goes into the layout of all the parts is very, very impressive. There are a lot of small details that are either cut onto the parts themselves (bullet holes, knots in the wood planking) or are separate pieces. For example, the red sheet (center / front sheet) is used for the exposed brick work has extra brick sections to use as rubble including 80 individual bricks. All of the components where very well produced and the sheet coloring was well done. The only thing I can ding 4Ground on is the instruction sheet, which is a color fold out that shows how all the parts go together. I find 4Ground's presentation style to be a bit confusing but that's a minor nit. Build Tip 1: ALWAYS test fit parts before gluing, it's easy to get a bit confused as to which part goes where.
Components: 9 out of 10
Assembly:
It took me roughly 45 minutes of build time to complete the model and, as advertised, it's ready for the tabletop (more on that later). I used standard yellow wood glue for the model and all the parts fit together snuggly. The walls of the house are two parts Outside and inside facing so the both sides are "painted" but it also adds a good deal of strength to the kit. I did my standard drop test from 4 feet and nothing happened. OK, I don't really have a standard drop test (dropping one of my resin kits are you crazy?). I accidentally dropped the finished kit and it survived the fall intact! There is a surprising amount of interior detail, walls, posts and stairs. The plank flooring is well done. I was a little skeptical about building the stairs but they proved to be an easy assembly. The stairs are designed to accommodate a 25 mm round base so 28mm figures can be placed securely on the stairs. Build Tip 2: Don't remove parts from the sheet until you need them. There are part numbers printed on the sheet next to the parts (not on them) so it can become hard to identify parts once they are separated from their part number. This should just be a model kit, not a puzzle and model kit.
Assembly: 10 out of 10
Finished Kit:
The finished kit looks good and is ready for the table top. I was very impressed by the model but do have an aesthetic issue with the appearance - it's too "straight liney". What does that mean? As the model is assembled for sheets of plywood everything is angular, flat and "clean" - there's nothing "round". A demolished house would have piles of rubble which don't lend themselves to being represented for flat sheet of wood. I think this is an easy fix by adding some rubble mix and using the 80 precut individual bricks provided with the kit.
Another view of the model which shows the stairs.
Finally the other side of the kit. My next step for this model will be to "tart-it-up" with some rubble and debris. I'll use a slurry of fine sand, rail road model ballast and the kit's bricks to make rubble and use my band saw to trim some planks from the frame that held the floor parts for some timbers. The key is to add enough rubble/debris to soften the angular look without taking up too much room as models still need to fit into the house. That project will be the subject of another post.
Finished Kit: 8/10
Summary:
Kit Components: 9 out of 10
Kit Assembly: 10 out of 10
Finished Kit: 8/10
Overall: 9/10 - Highly Recommended
I'm confident that I'll be raising the score of the completed kit once I'm done adding a small amount of debris.
NOTE: This post first appeared on the WWPD Bolt Action Blog
Monday, November 18, 2013
The 4th Annual Analog Hobbies Painting Challenge - I am sooooo in!!!!!!!
The Analogue Hobbies 4th Annual Painting Challenge is coming up again! This event is sponsored and run by Curt C., the author of the excellent Analogue Hobbies blog and it's become one of my favorite gaming related events of the year. The challenge starts on December 20th and runs through March 20th and essentially is a race between all of us to see who can paint the most toys in the that frame.
I usually combine the challenge with a goal of hosting a convention game that uses the majority of the mini's I've painted and will do the same this year. I managed to paint up 10 Confederate 24 fig infantry regiments last year so it's a good motivator.
The big news for the 4th challenge is that the field of appropriate miniatures has been expanded beyond historical's and can now include sci-fi and fantasy. That works well for me as one of my planned game expansions is "All Quiet on the Martian Front" from Alien Dungeon. Thanks Curt!
Assembly and priming of the mini's is allowed before the start - so I've got so model prep work to get done!
I usually combine the challenge with a goal of hosting a convention game that uses the majority of the mini's I've painted and will do the same this year. I managed to paint up 10 Confederate 24 fig infantry regiments last year so it's a good motivator.
The big news for the 4th challenge is that the field of appropriate miniatures has been expanded beyond historical's and can now include sci-fi and fantasy. That works well for me as one of my planned game expansions is "All Quiet on the Martian Front" from Alien Dungeon. Thanks Curt!
Assembly and priming of the mini's is allowed before the start - so I've got so model prep work to get done!
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