And here are the dimensions - well not really. I need to enlarge the dimensions but the depth of the rabbit cut on the trim
I milled some pine stock down to 1 inch high by 3/4 inch wide. I'll attach the trim with a rabbit which is done on my router table. The router bit is 1/2 inch wide and will bore out a 1/4 inch trench or 'rabbit' that the plywood top will fit into. I need to add the depth of the rabbit to each side dimension before cutting out the top. This will create a snug fit and look good (well hopefully).
The next phase is testing the rabbited stock's fit. It's perfect. Sometimes the thickness of plywood varies by 1/16 of an inch so it's always best to test fit.
And then glue and clamp in place.
I also added the same size trim to the bottom.
I didn't cut enough stock to make full pieces for all the sides so had to use two smaller pieces.
I'm not the good a miter joints and had a gap on the tip. Rather than mill some more stock I cut a shim and then put a mixture of sawdust and glue to fill the gap. Once that fully dries I'll hit with a little wood putty and know one will be the wiser.
Everything clamped up and in places
Can never have too many clamps.
Here's a shot of the case after it's been sanded and given a coat of danish oil.
I really like Dainsh Oil as a finish - wipes on with no fuss and is easy to patch later on.
You can see I used plywood from 2 different sheets - that's why the top drawer is some much darker in wood grain. For most projects one should try to match the grains better.
A shot from the rear.
I left the top with a recess also so I could fit in a tournament tray that has scenery. I've always admired the terrain tournament boards that John B uses for Bolt Action.
There will be one more post on the case - once this cost of oil dries I need to resand and fill some spots but the case is in usable condition.
Oh and I need to add some hardware that's on back order....