Sectional Terrain: 3 Panels done

 The three 2x4 terrain panels for Historicon are done!  All thats left to do is a 6 ft x 1 ft shoreline. With the shoreline, I'll have enough panels to make a 15 ft x 6 ft playing area for the land portion of the game.

After Historicon, I'll need to build some panel storage racks but thats a project for another day.

The basic ground cover is a mix of two types of Woodland Scenics Static Grass - 2 parts Light Green (FL364) and 1 part Dark Green (FL636).  The affix the static grass to the board I put down a think layer of undiluted matt medium.  Work in relatively small areas (18 x 18 inches).  The static grass is applied by placing it in an old wire mesh strainer which I tap against my hand (like a terrain making tambourine).  The strainer is held about 3-4 inches above the panel.  Once one section is done move onto the the next.

When brushing the matt medium along the edge of an existing section it's best to only brush away from the sceniced portion (in the second photo  it would be to the right or top of the picture frame).  You'll pull some fibers into the new area but those will get covered up by the new layer when it's  applied.

You can also use standard white glue as an adhesive.  Ive found matt medium to be a bit better as it never yellows - sometimes white glue will yellow over the passage of a few years.

Take your time and move section by section.  I like to leave bare spots to break up the visual pattern but never plan them out.

 Once all the flock is laid down, the next step is to seal it with diluted matt medium (50% water / 50% matt medium).  This part requires two simple steps.  First lightly wet the board tops with spray water that has a drop of dishwashing soap in it - the soap breaks down the waters viscosity and help it low evenly.  Once a section is wet spray the diluted matt medium over it (even the base areas).  The water will "pull" the matt medium through the applied flock and when it dries its set and will stand up to aggressive tabletop action.

You want to wet the top but not soak it - if you've got water dribbling off the edges of the panel then you've put on too much.  It's not really a problem but greatly extends drying time.

I use spray bottles from old household cleaners to apply both the water and the diluted matt medium.

All three boards drying.  It takes about 3-4 hours to dry and set.  You can see I still need to paint the rock face on the hill panel (center).  I'll do that when I move the boards inside and can work on them in better light.

Please notice how I've pulled the panel apart - thats so they don't get "glued together" while the matt medium dries.  As with most useful terrain making hints, I've learned this one the hard way.

The shell holes were also finished after the edging grout had set.  It was easy - paint the edges using the same medium brown paint and then used some "soot chalk" purchased years ago from Bragdon Enterprises for my model railroad.  It's easy to apply - just put a little in the center of the crater and rub it in - the friction from the rubbing causes the material to adhere to the surface.

Let me know how you think the craters came out.  In the fall, I'm planning to do a "WW I themed panel" with trenches and craters do this was a little bit of a test.