This blog will will contain my rather pedantic ramblings on my experiences within the miniature war gaming hobby. There will be informative how-to’s, thrilling battle reports and thought provoking editorials. I fully expect that history will one day view the contents of this blog on par with Homer’s Illiad or Newton’s Principalia. Or it's a complete waste of time.
The last items I need to put on the Historical game this July just arrived from Total Battle Miniatures. They Mae some really nice resin building and basing plots that will make very nice centerpieces on the table.
A simple farm
A small village and
a larger version.
I'm really pleased with the casting quality and look forward to painting these up over the next few weeks.
The rules I'll be using (General D'Armee) use area terrain for urban terrain so the base will be uses for that. The buildings can be lifted off to get them out of the way.
The large church comes with two options for the top of its' tower - one western and one eastern. I plan on attaching them with magnets to give a bit more flexibility.
Really excited about getting these painted up and ready for the table.
Sean graduated form Carnegie Mellon University with a degree in Statistics / Computer Science this past weekend. I couldn't be more proud of him, especially after having overcome some daunting health issues which had delayed this event but could not prevent it.
Mary Beth and I were joined by three of Sean's aunts, who were representing my Alabama based family - here's a picture with his great aunts Jana and Elaine.
and his Aunt Lori, who I grew up with. These ladies are not demure southern belles and made a god-awful racket whistling and cheering while which made Sean turn beat red - it was great. 2 funny stories. As they were yelling one family to our right turned and gave us the stink eye as, they were more "proper". That was a big mistake as Lori flashed here badge (she's in law enforcement) and told them to mind their own business (maybe not exactly in those words). After the Sean got his degree a second family asked if we would yell for their daughter as she got her degree. Of course the ladies were happy to oblige. I'm just thankful, Lori left her gun back in Mobile as things could have gone badly.
A picture of Sean with his friend Dani. They were' officers in the Robotics club and built an autonomous buggy together. I suspect there will be an upcoming trip to California for Sean.
A picture of Sean with his mom in front of the CMU fence. This fence has been painted over to announce various clubs / events for close to 75 years. It started out as a standard wooden fence and now has thousands of coats of paint. Keeping the thing standing is a key project for seniors in the engineering school.
Sean gave us a tour of the Robotics club. He is the only person whose been president of the club who wasn't an engineering student.
In the machine room of the robotics club is this fantastic 1930's metal lather from Pratt & Whitney. It still works!
I know this is a very self indulgent post but I couldn't be more proud of my son and happy for him. Given his past struggles, we focused solely on getting to graduation and the next task for him will be to figure out what he wants to do as an adult. It should be interesting to watch. Personally, I'm hoping for he picks London but we'll see what comes next.
Having just finished reading Dave Taylor's book "Armies, Legions and Hordes", I thought it might be helpful to post a short review.
I highly recommend the book and think it's got a place in just about every gamers library. The pictures are superbly done and it covers both historical and non-historical gaming genres. (OK, it does skew to sciFi / GW stuff but that's where the majority of tabletop gamers are.) The writing style is very clear and the graphics layout easy on the eyes. It's also organized into clear sections by topic for those of you who prefer perusing these materials while in the "private library". I nether condone nor disparage such behavior.
To be honest, this is one of the few hobby "how-to" books I've read cover to cover - mostly I just jump around looking for a specific topic or I find the writing style a bit painful to put up with for long periods of time "It puts the matte medium on the ground cover".
Not so with this book - I found it was really fun to read and helped me identify a few bad habits that to change to make my hobby time a bit more productive.
You can purchase the book from Ironheart Artisans or find it on Amazon. For hobby books with limited distribution I try to purchase from a non-Amazon sources as I'd like the author to get a full cut for their work in the hopes they produce more.
The painting of Steve's Tower was very simple. The first step (which I have no pictures of) was to cover the entire piece in a primer made of 50% cheap craft paint and 50% Modge Podge matte finish. This provides both a nice black primer to cover up the pink and white EPS and also hardens the foam a bit to make the piece a bit more durable. I got this idea form the Jeremy's Black Magic Craft Youtube channel and am using it for almost all of my terrain related projects.
Because the surface is so uneven, I do the priming in two steps - a thinned down version is first applied and allowed to dry and then a full strength one is applied over the top. The definition of thinned down is a dip my brush in the 50/50 mixture and then dip it again in some water before painting it on. I used a 1" brush as priming terrain isn't exactly precision work.
Once the primer has been given 24 hours to dry, the next step is to paint the whole thing a medium grey, dry brush a light grey and black wash.
This is also a nice picture of the revised top where an overhand was added with the crenelation now along the outer ring. I doubt it's architecturally sound but it looks cool.
Interior of level three
and the ground floor.
The exterior was really simple, as Steve will be using the Tower in multiple settings. I used a scenic express ground cover and then attach some loose material for vines and moss
It's a really simple technique that looks rather nice
The top was fun as I had some of extra bricks so I made a simple pattern around along the edge. I also added a hatch.
and, of course a ladder to get to the roof. The rungs on the ladder are spaced in a way that a minis' bases can be slotted in to some them going up the ladder.
I also painted up the beams at this point.
The last thing to bee done was to scratch build a pair of doors that open and close.
A few months ago, I made a custom 3 level Wizards Tower for my friend Steve Mac to use on his D&D Streaming Channel "Castlemac". He wanted to surprise his players so I've held off until now posting about the build. It's a pretty simple design and was a lot of fun to build.
This post will cover the construction.
I cheated a bit and purchased some styrofoam 12" diameter circles, that were 1" think. I've always struggled cutting precise circles in EPS and wanted the base of each level to be as uniform as possible. Steve's uses a 1" grid so one was added using a dull pencil.
Once the grid was drawn in, I marked off 4 points in 90 degree increments which was very helpful later on in the project. Then the somewhat tedious part of the project started - brick work. The first course of bricks are 2"x1"x1" rectangles. I went with larger "base bricks as the matches the floor level and broke up the monotony of the exterior a bit. These were attached with hot glue and some care needed to be taken to ensure they where level with the floor. I did angle the edges of each brick about 7-10 degrees to allow them to fire snugly along the diameter. These cuts were just eyeballed and worked out ok.
Next came the laying of the smaller bricks - these where .5"x.5"x1" in size and laid in a double wall as you can see in the third picture. I used Eileen's tacky glue to affix these as its thick enough to hold them in place put gives you an hour so to reposition, cut or level any bricks before the glue sets.
Each level is 3 inches high so the means 6 layers of double bricks per level. To try and keep the walls plum once the third level of bricks was placed I added wood beam supports. These were cut on my table saw using oak 1/2 inch square stock. Any wood would do, but oak is what I had on hand. It's very important that these are all precisely the same size or you will end up with a leaning tower. I used the 90 degree marks mentioned above to place the beams and glued them in place. Once set and plum, walk away and let the glue cure.
Since this is a Tower with multiple levels,. we do need some stairs. I was a bit daunted on how to make curved stairs until I realized I could take an extra foam disk and cut out a 1" deep piece . These sections were then sliced in 1"2 inch heights and easy-peasy stairs that miniatures can stand on were born.
The entry to the Tower was even simpler than the stairs - I just cut three extra 1/2 inch wood beams and glued them in place. Some custom brick cutting is needed to fit the bricks around the door frame but that's pretty easy.
You can still see that by the 6 level the brick aren't completely level. I took my foam cutting knife and cut off anything that was over 3" - I used another 3" wood beam as a guide to do so.
This picture also shows that the bricks are all textured. The texture was added by putting the "freshly" cut bricks in a sealed container (I used an empty paint can), tossing some rocks in and shaking the thing violently. It works surprisingly well and is good therapy when one is going crazy after cutting too many bricks. Word to the wise, shaking bricks in a metal can with rocks is very loud and one shouldn't do this at 5:30am on a Saturday morning when one's wife got in at 2:00am the night before after performing a long and complicated surgery. It doesn't end well for the hobbiest.
With level 1 done, it was time to rinse and repeat for levels 2 and three. There are three differences for level two:
1) No door frame
2) I added 4 arrow slits
3) needed to cut out a space over the stairs up from level one. This section also became the base of the stairs that are added to level two!
The same location process was used for the four wood beams.
Cutting in the arrow slots was harder than it looks but eventually they got done.
Level two is done and now I can create another one just like it. Yipeee!!!!!
The top section took some time to figure out. I changed up the base course of bricks going with 1x1x1" wedges and made a very simple crenellation along the top. To be honest by this time I was getting a little tired of foam bricks.
Subsequent to this picture I changed the design of the top pretty radically. You'll just have to wait and see what it became. OK maybe not, you can look closely at the first picture if you really want to.
and we're the finished tower. The next post will deal with painting and scenicing the base.
I suspect one or two of you maybe wondering how many bricks went into this little project. My rough estimate is just under 1,600 0.5x.0.5x 1.0 bricks
One note - this project would be impossible with out the right tools and the most important is my trusty Proxxon hot wire cutting table. I think it's the most useful hobby tool I have and well worth the $120ish price tag.
One word of advice - the table comes with it's own mitre gauge, which is pretty much useless as it doesn't hold fast.
I strongly suggest you build a more robust straight edge - it's really simple and you can see how I built the one to the left here. I think it took me 15 minutes to do.
My guide is not very pretty but it works perfectly.
This Saturday, I played in a 10 person Star Wars Legion Tournament held at Huzzah Hobbies in VA. I didn't have high expectations of winning as the three tournament games would be 3rd through 5th games played but the best way to learn to swim is to, well you know.
I forgot to take pictures, which is a good sign I was having fun and only have two on my phone. The first pictures is from my second game where two very similar Imperial forces take on one another. It was my funnest game and went down to the wire but the win went to John B.
A shot of Steve and Eric's last game. I played on the Endor table you can get a peak of in the lower right and got crushed by Gordon's rebel force. Crushed may be charitable to me.
Overall, I went 1-2 and placed 8th out of 10 - nothing to write home about (or blog) but I did achieve my goal of not coming in last. The experience did cement for me two viewpoints:
(1) Legion is a great game and
(2) the local community is made up of a lot of Bolt Action players that I know and they are a great group of people.
While it uses miniatures and table top terrain, the game plays more like a board game than a historical tabletop game. The key to being good is understanding how to kit out your troops and build command decks that allow you to maximize your forces potential so a good deal of planning goes into list tweaking. The game does a much better job of capturing a Star Wars "feel" for me than FFG's 2 other tabletop miniature games in the genre (X-Wing, Imperial Assault and Armada).
I suspect you'll see a lot more Legion stuff on the blog.
The specific list I ran
General Veers Improvised Orders, Esteemed Leader, Boba Fett Hunter, Emergency Stims, Stormtroopers +DLT-19 Stormtrooper, Stormtroopers +DLT-19 Stormtrooper, Stormtroopers +DLT-19 Stormtrooper, Scout Troopers (Strike Team) +DLT-19x Sniper, Snowtroopers +Flametrooper, AT-ST 195 Imperial Hammers Elite Armor Pilot, 88 Twin Light Blaster Cannon, AT-ST Mortar Launcher, Commands:Ambush, Maximum Firepower, Evasive Maneuvers, Pinned Down, Assault, Coordinated Fire, Standing Orders, I used a great free web app called TableTop Admiral to generate the list - check it out it's hugely helpful. The AT/ST was a beast - it evaporated 3-4 units every game (including the AT/ST opponent in game 2) but it's cost so many points that the rest of my force was just too weak and I didn't have enough activations. The game is similar to Bolt Action in there is a tradeoff between unit firepower and force flexibility via activations. Too much firepower in a single unit really makes the force a glass cannon. Next time I play, I'll probably swap out the AT/ST for 2-3 different units. Thanks to Steve and Eric for getting to get off my butt and attend the event. It was a lot of fun.
Registration is now open for Historicon. I'm really looking forward to going this year. The event will be held in a brand new(and way better) venue. I'll also be putting on my games as part of the Little Wars TV contingenet. Maybe I'll even get a T-Shirt but lets not get our hopes up too high. Here's a link to a video from the club about the new venue - it's looks really great.
As usual, I'm running a large game multiple times this year. The game format is a big change for me as it's in 15mm scale and will be unseeing a moderately complex ruleset (General D'Armee). As with most of my games, there will be boats involved, as boats make everything better don't they.
Here's the description of the game from the PEL:
T14:267 To Catch a King - Little Wars TV Thursday, 2:00 PM, 4 hrs, Players: 8, Location: Commonwealth: CW-25GM: Miles Reidy & Little Wars TVSponsor: None, Prize: YesPeriod: Napoleonic, Scale: 15mm, Rules: General D'ArmeeDescription: The Corsican Ogre has managed to invade England and has the British army on the run. Damn that fool Nelson and his naval misadventures! Still, all hope is not lost if we can just keep King George the III and his court out of the clutches of the French. For the French, the campaign goes well but supplies are short and control of the seas tenuous at best. The Grande Armee must deal the English a final blow before their continental allies can rescue them. This game features both land and naval encounters, all played in glorious 15mm scale. Children welcome w/ parent.
As you can see, it will be a meticulously researched historical game of exacting standards. OK maybe not but it should be fun and there will be plenty of surprise events for both sides to keep the game moving along.
I'm still finishing up some terrain and have added a few miniatures to the painting lists but we're about 90% there in terms of prep. The table will have a little over 2,300 painted figures and maybe more if the promised Austrian reinforcements arrive.
The scenario involves the British in a holding action as they try to convey the King and his court across the table and onto a waiting ship. Said ship will then need to fight it's way out of the harbor. Alternatively, an aggressive British commander could choose to stand and fight in the hopes that the promised Austrian reinforcements arrive. They'll still need to use the remnants of the fleet to hold off the French navy from adding their guns to the weight of the French artillery. Lastly, with King George being THAT King George, his movements may be erratic at times......
The game is listed to be run 5x in the PEL and I'll run a few walkup games in the evenings - I like to run games for the vendors at night as they often don't get a chance to play.
Here are the PEL listings
T14:267 Thursday at 2:00pm
F09:526 Friday at 9:00am
F14:527 Friday at 2:00pm
S09:528 Saturday at 9:00am
S09:524 Saturday at 2:00pm
I hope to see you at Historicon this coming July.
A sneak peak at some of the French infantry. Its just a few figures......
OK, we're up to the final two stages of this miniature forestry adventure - making the tree canopies and scenicing the bases. A word of warning - both these processes are extremely messy and YOU WILL burn yourself on the glue gun. Sometimes sacrifices must be made the the Miniature Wargaming gods.
The first step is to cut out the underbase for the tree canopies. I like to use black foam core as its cheap, durable and the black hides any gaps from the attached foam material. Just trace the shape of each tree base onto the foam core and the cut it out with a new facto knife blade. For some added elevation I attached another layer of foam core. In actual practice this didn't really do anything so I would skip that step.
With the canopy bases cut out the next step is the attache the foam. I strongly serge you get a cheap cake pan as pictured for any flocking exercises. The pan really controls the mess and helps me reused the flock that shakes off. I ended up using three colors from the woodland scenic line - light, medium and dark green (very creative names). Lay out the clump foliage and pre picked some larger pieces of dark green to attached to the sides.
Use a hot glue gun to attach the foam working on 2 to 3 inches sections at a time. This is a bit tedious but the results are worth the effort. As stated above you will burn yourself doing this. You'll also use up a lot of sticks of hot glue so go buy some more right now. No really go buy some, we'll wait - here's a link:
I don't have no affiliate program, I just wanted to see how many of you clicked the link.
After what seems like 10 hours the edges are finished. Ok maybe 5-10 minutes but it seemed like 10 hours as this was the 6th of 12 tree canopies I was building.
Some of you might notice the lines of hot glue running form the edges into the center of the foam core. That was done on purpose to control the hot glue strings. One you're done putting a bead of glue along the edge, drag the tip of the hot glue gun along the top to get rid of any excess glue - that reduces the wisps by 95%.
With the edges in place, start adding the clump foiuliage working in from the outer edge. You could use standard PVA glue but I went with even more hot glue as it was just faster. Take your time and make sure there are no holes. Once I got the edges done I brought in the big guns of tree foam industry.
Thats right, I used "Foliage Clusters". Is there a difference between to Clump Foliage and Foliage Clusters? Kind of yes, kind of no. Clump Foliage it just Foliage Clusters cut up into small pieces.
Here's a picture of the two version of foliage. The foliage cluster (on the right) is used to add height to the canopy and is a lot faster to put down, especially with hot glue.
Once all the foam is attached soak the canopy is diluted Matt medium and water to ensure the foam has a strong adherence both the foam core and the between the foam pieces. Don't skip this step or you'll constantly need to be explaining to your spouse/partner why there are always tiny pieces of green foam around your house. Trust me when I say these excuses eventually become ineffective.
And boom, you've got some very nice tree canopies.
The last step is scenicing the bases. I used a mix of let over ground foam and some leaves to make this. I always took the gather twigs, painted the them same colors as the dowel tree trunks and added them on the bases.
Another liberal coating of diluted matt medium....
and there are the finished tree stands drying.
So how do they look on the table - Lets observe this tree stand as some British calvary pass it by.
The canopies came out grew. An easy detail to break up the monotony of the green color is to have a dead tree branch of two poking out the the canopy.
Here's the base with the top removed. I like how the dead (brown) leaves came out and broke up the color pattern. I'll go back and hit the edges of this one with more flock after it's had another day of two to dry out.