Sunday, May 31, 2015
The first units of the British Intervention Force (BIF) have arrived. These were painted by my game co-host Mike M and are just superb. Completed to date are 3, 24 fig Infantry battalions, a high command stand and an officer. In the pipeline are a unit of Lancers, 3 more infantry battalions and some more artillery. All of the miniatures are 28mm metals from the Perry British Intevention Force line. They are wonderful sculpts.
A close up of the infantry. Mike really did a nice job on these. I really like the crisp red iniforms and think they look splendid on the tabletop when marching alongside the confederate greys and union blues.
The command stands. My pictures do not do the High Command stand justice - It's amazingly painted and a real gem.
Lastly a close up of the infantry.
How will these plucky Brtis do against the battle hardened Union forces on the tabletop? You'll need to register for my games at Historicon this year to find out T-340 - F-341 in the HCON PEL.
Saturday, May 30, 2015
The two games that Mike and I are running are up on the Historicon PEL - the PEL can be found here:
My games are
T-340, Thurs from 2:00-6:00pm
"Decision in Delmarva Part 1: The British Force a Landing
A 1/600 scale naval battle pitting a Britsh/CSA fleet against the battered remnants of a Union navy trying to block the landing of a Britsh army in the Delmarva peninsula. The outcome of this game sets the stage for Friday's land battle.
F-341, Fri from 2:00 - 6:00
Decision in Delmarve Part 2: The Assault
A combined British / CSA army will either attack the Union if the landings in the previous game are succesul or an out numbered CSA force will be defending against a larger Union force and hoping that the British reinforcements that were forced to land further down due to loosing the naval encounter arrive in time. This game will use the Longstreet Ruleset with 28mm scale mini's including the new Perry British Intervention Force figures. Each side will have over 20 battalions on the table.
If your going to Historicon - consider signing up - the games will be fun and the prizes are beyond your dreams of avarice (well maybe not all that big but still good)
Also check out the Architects of War "All Quiet on the Martian Front" games at the con this year. The game last year was spectacular and this year promises to be even more impressive.
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
By the way, I don't know about you but I create a terribleness when terrain making. I've tried to be organized but fail epically.
When cutting lumber, it's best to do it in a large batch. It's important to be "in the mood" so the cuts are precise and you end the session with the same number of fingers attached as you started.
Each 2x4 panel requires 2, 24" lengths for the short edges, 2 46.5" lengths for the long edges and 1 22.5 inch length to run down the middle as a support. The outer edges are placed on their 0.75 inch side and the central support if placed on it's 1.75 inch side. As you can surmise from the dimensions I'm using butt joints rather than miter the edges. Why? butt joints will provide a bit more strength and these aren't furniture. I will dress the sides up with a gunstock varnish which does a good job hiding the edges.
One of the lumber pieces was a bit warped so I broke out some clamps and locked it in position to work out most of the warping. One can never have too many clamps when building something with wood. I've got over 100 of the orange handled clamps above and have worked on projects where they've all been in use at the same time.
Lastly, at the very top of the photo are the new edges for the hill sections 2, 18 inch and 2, 9 inch matched mitered edges. These will raise the hill profiles from the current 2 inches on the edges to 3.5 inches but it's worth a little redo work to get rid of that ugly gap.
One of the 2x4 sections will have a river running through it length wise so I'll need to cut opening in the edge sections to allow the 3.5 inch wide river through.
After cutting the river exits, the next step will be to assemble the sections. I use water proof wood glue as the main binding agent and brad nails to hold the sections in place. Once the glue dries the wood will break first before the bond so these panels are really solid. After that theres a lot of sanding to ensure the edges match up up to each other and no splinters for players.
Not the most exciting of updates, but it's a necessary one.
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
By the way, you can catch a glimpse of my lovely yet fierce wife in the last picture - the turquoise spot in the center. She says she was planting herbs but I think she was keeping an eye on Sean and me.
Monday, May 18, 2015
After transmitting the East Bay we entered the Miles River and sailed into St Michaels. Once the boat was moored in her slip we spent about an hour fixing the jib sail rigging and cleaning up the boat. After that my wife came over and we had dinner at the Marina.
All-in-all it was a good but long day on the bay and the Bucentaure has logged her first 39 Nautical miles of 2015.
Friday, May 15, 2015
The easiest way to fix this is to simple trim 3/4's an inch from the ends of each section and replace that with some 1x2 lumber that's trimmed to match. Doing so will ensure a clean fit and serve to better protect the sides when the units are in transit.
Monday, May 11, 2015
Despite the distraction the Bucentaure poses, I'm still feeling comfortable about getting everything done in time for Historicon. We shall see....
More Stupid Terrain Modeler tips - this is a rolling list of things I've learned while doing this project
(1) Ground foam crops look awful when they are different sizes and not spaced evenly - take the time to add details in the right way and don't rush
The additions from this post:
(2) Gravity stays in effect while building terrain. I had forgotten that water flows to the lowest level and after leaving the risky depression board to dry overnight and came in to discover that the diluted glue had kept into the sand bottom and brought along enough flock to cover it - the whole section had to be redone. I should have put some dam's in place.
(3) Plaster cloth is great for terrain but don't but the hobby version which is expensive - buy the cloth from a medical supply house (it's the stuff used to make casts) - you can get 5x the amount for 1/3 the price.
Sunday, May 10, 2015
Ray's celebrating his 500th post over at his blog "Don't Throw a One" - go on over and check it out. The last date to enter the contest is May 15th, so I suggest you go over after that so as not to reduce my chances winning.
All kidding aside, it's a very generous give away from one of my favorite bloggers - go check it out. I'll probably not hold you directly responsible if I don't win anything. Probably.....
Saturday, May 9, 2015
Once the tile grout sets (which has white glue mixed in for stability) I'll carve some cliff faces in and the next step will be scenicing.
I'm very pleased with how these two sections are shaping up.
Friday, May 8, 2015
* Another tip is that is that while I really like Vallejo paints they aren't really cost effective to use for terrain. I created some Paint sample cards of the colors I use for terrain Flat Brown, German Camo Orange (great for dry brushing) and Iraqi Sand and took them to my local hardware store and had some some 1 quart paint pails made up. Now I've got plenty of terrain paint in a thick and very durable latex.
Wednesday, May 6, 2015
This year's garden has been started. The new crop to try this year are acorn squashes - we'll see how they do.
Sunday, May 3, 2015
I had a few hours free yesterday so decided to add some ground texture to my test sectional boards. The first picture shows the materials that will be employed - a selection of ground covers from Woodland Scenics and Scenic Express. An old kitchen strainer will be used to apply the materials. The binding agent is some diluted white glue (50/50 mix with water). Not pictured is another important tool - a spray bottle filled with water and a few drops of dishwashing soap.
I do need to make two very important points
(1) When in use store the dry components to one side of the project and the wet ones on the other - just trust me that this is a good idea.
The field will need to be redone. My apologies if this photo upset those of you who are sensitive to these kind of things...
I did choose NOT to apply my static grass with out the electric applicator that makes it stand up. This was a choice where practicality won over appearances. While the grass does look better standing up, it's far less durable and these boards will see a lot of transporting.
Why all the 1/2 inch thick pieces of extruded polystyrene? Is my planning that intricate? Nope, I was practicing cutting dimensions of scrap polystyrene 'cause I got a new toy:
Thermocutter - think band saw for polystyrene! I got the idea from Anton's Wargame Blog and his fantastic fort project.
I purchased mine from Amazon Prime. The list price was a bit higher but the free delivery made the total cost cheaper. Now here the cool part - Amazon is testing same day delivery in my area (DC / Baltimore) so I ordered this beauty on a Tuesday morning and received it Tuesday evening. All hail Jeff Bezos!!!
It's a really useful tool but I'm still figuring out how to use it effectively.
Edit: As I go along in this project, I'll keep adding to the list of "Stupid Terrain Maker Tricks" - here's the first:
(1) Ground foam crops look awful when they are both different sized and not spaced evenly enough - take the time to add details the right way and don't rush